Extracted from ‘How Hair Extensions are Sourced Treated and Graded by Diane Shawe
• Remy hair: Hair that has been cut and maintained with the roots aligned and bound together at the top of the bundle. These bundles are carefully preserved throughout the export process and arrive at the factory still intact.
• Non-Remy hair: Hair that does not have its roots aligned. It may have been collected off the floor, or there may be some other reason they were unable to keep the roots together and running in the same direction. This hair is sold at a much cheaper price than remy hair.
Once the hair arrives at the factory, it is treated in a hydrochloric acid bath to remove the cuticle. A word of warning – hydrochloric acid is extremely hazardous. Please do not put yourself at risk by experimenting with this chemical! But back to the problem. It’s not the remy hair; remy hair is relatively easy to process and the damage inflicted during de-cuticalization is slight. Non-remy hair is the villain.
Non-remy hair requires a higher concentration of acid since the cuticle runs in both directions. This frequently results in hair with very low moisture content that appears dry and straw-like. Moisture is critical to good-looking hair. Human hair usually contains 10.5% – 11% moisture (measured in a controlled environment of ISO 40% – 63% moisture). Non-remy hair has trouble retaining this vital moisture.
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